Follow that cat!

Town or country? It's years since I've lived in a city, right in the centre where the action is, I mean. London, Paris, Montpellier, from pokey student bedsits to chic, leafy green surburbs, I've done it all, loving the bright lights but also enjoying the unpolluted, star-lit skies far out in the country. I live in a small village in the South of France now and often moan that I'm a city girl at heart. Mmm, half and half, I think. I need to strike a happy medium, yes, living somewhere like La Place de la Canourgue in Montpellier would suit me fine...

 I did live here once, a long time ago, and I still love the whole 'quartier'. Beautiful architecture, beautiful apartments, beautiful shops, all very tempting. It's an elegant square, home to antique dealers, design shops, law firms, real estate agencies and cafés, perfect for people-watching when the sun comes out. 

Boutiques come and go, of course. La Place de la Canourgue is a sought-after location, c'est la campagne en ville, and rents must be high. Places definitely worth visiting include RBC Structures, La Galérie 17, Vues d'Intérieurs and the lovely Farrow & Ball stockist Aux Couleurs du Temps.

And then there's Terres Anciennes, a favourite of mine. It's tiny, "no room to swing a cat", as they say, but a well-organised, happy jumble of old and new finds for all pockets. You'll need and want to take your time, especially if the shop's busy. As its name suggests, Terres Anciennes is well-known for its collection of 19th Century everyday, functional pottery, which some of you may already have seen at French flea markets. 

I always seem to come away with a little treat -  a new coat hanger, a soap dish, table mats, zinc cutouts and decorative ornaments to hang up high -  and I really love their selection of handmade products. Colette & Sylvain Jouannet try to work with local artists as much as possible and I noticed some very cool recycled lamps and tyre mirrors when I nipped in there last week.

Make sure you have a good look at the shop counter/desk covered with old sheets of zinc if you ever get the chance to visit. It was made by a local artisan, who also designed the shop owners' kitchen (yes, I asked for his address!).


You'll find Terres Anciennes along the Rue du Palais, it's petite but full of surprises. Somewhere to spend your pocket money on holiday in the south of France.


When you step outside again, you'll be back in the country, in the square, the little village,  la campagne en ville. And don't worry about getting lost down all those wonderful side streets, just follow the cat and I'm sure you'll be fine!